Quickdraws and maillons - Climbing

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How does a quickdraw work?

A quickdraw is made up of two carabiners connected by a short strap. Each carabiner has a specific role: one is free on the sling, while the other is fixed. During the ascent, the climber secures his route by attaching the free carabiner to an anchor point on the wall, then passing the rope through the fixed carabiner by pressing on the hollow of the finger before clipping it. In the event of a fall, the climber is thus held in place by the last quickdraw he or she placed.

How to choose the right quickdraw?

Climbing quickdraws come with two types of carabiner closures, both straight and angled:
  1. Classic carabiner (solid finger): This type of carabiner has a spring system that makes it very easy to open and close automatically. It's also known as a "keylock", which makes it easy to detach, even when you're at arm's length. These karabiners are generally heavier than wire karabiners.

  2. Wire karabiner: unlike conventional karabiners, this type of karabiner's finger is made of thin metal rods. They are lighter yet stronger than their tube counterparts. What's more, they reduce the whiplash effect that can occur when opening a carabiner in the event of a fall.

Climbing quickdraws can be fitted with two carabiners with similar openings, or with a mixture of solid-finger and wiregate carabiners. This combination makes for a lighter quickdraw, while still benefiting from the keylock system for the anchor and the wiregate carabiner for the rope.

Weight is an important factor to take into account when climbing. If you're mainly a sport climber, maneuverability will be your main criterion, and the 90 grams of a quickdraw with tube carabiners won't be a problem. On the other hand, if you're into mountaineering or long routes, it's best to opt for quickdraws with wiregate carabiners weighing between 55 and 90 grams.

Which length?

When choosing your climbing quickdraw, it's important to find the right webbing length to ensure comfort and limit rope movement. Standard sizes are 10 to 12 cm, 17 cm and sometimes 25 cm. The length of your climbing quickdraw will depend on the location of the protection points. Up to a certain level, short quickdraws will be more than sufficient, but to avoid pulling in certain passages, it may be wise to opt for a longer one.

For sport climbing, nylon models are ideal. For long routes, on the other hand, it's best to choose a quickdraw with a Dyneema webbing, a light, resistant material. Some models also offer an adjustable strap, so you can adjust your quickdraw to suit the difficulties you encounter.

An important point

When it comes to sport climbing, long routes or mountaineering, quickdraws are essential equipment. When choosing your climbing quickdraws, it's important to consider the locking system of the carabiners to find the right compromise between lightness and maneuverability. It's also essential to consider the webbing, which influences the weight of your equipment and your comfort when using it.
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