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Everything you need to know about climbing ropes!
Want to be autonomous on the cliff? A good climbing rope is essential to ensure your safety! Double, single, or twin? 30, 50, or 70 meters? 8, 9, or 10 mm in diameter? Find all the information in this guide to better understand and choose your climbing rope wisely.
Thus, we will see:
- What is a climbing rope like?Thus, we will see:
- The different types of ropes
- Technical data
- The coatings
- Which rope for which practice?
- How to maintain your rope?
What is a climbing rope like?
A rope consists of two parts: the sheath (often colored), made of woven synthetic fibers, and the core (in white), made of braided fiber. The threads are made of polyamide to be more durable and rot-proof.
The core of the rope gives it mechanical characteristics: elasticity, resistance, flexibility. The sheath, on the other hand, protects the core from external elements (friction, dust, water, abrasion).
Some hyper-static ropes made of aramid or dyneema can be used for rescue, rappelling, or caving. However, these ultra-light and strong ropes should not be used for belaying, climbing on cliffs, or any situation requiring dynamic properties.
The different types of ropes
Dynamic ropes:
With a rather low impact force and unique, innovative technologies, the dynamic rope absorbs energy in the event of a fall thanks to its elastic properties, allowing for the practice of most vertical activities: climbing, mountaineering, canyoning both indoors and outdoors, thus ensuring your safety.
There are different types of dynamic ropes specific to each use: single rope, double rope, twin or multi-norm ropes.
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Single ropes: The athlete's choice!
Recognizable by the symbol ①, it is used for single-length routes (in sport climbing) on cliffs or indoors, used with one strand. It can also be used for multi-pitch climbing when there is little drag and if you descend on foot (no rappelling). Lengths of 70m and 80m are available, but there are also lengths of 40m for gyms or 100m for 50m routes (notably in the Tarn gorges)!
The single rope can have a diameter ranging from 9 to 10.5mm and a weight of 55 to 70 g/m, making it a rather heavy but robust and durable rope over time. Prefer a diameter less than 10mm to avoid having a rope that is too heavy.
Double rope: To aim higher!
Recognizable by the symbol 
, it is used for climbing multiple lengths (climbing known as "big wall"). The double rope allows climbing on two strands of different colors and descending by "rappelling" the same lengths that were climbed. Much thinner and lighter, its diameter is between 8 and 9 mm for a weight of 40 to 50 g/m per strand. This type of rope also helps limit drag on the ascent, as the two strands are alternately clipped to the quickdraws, allowing for the belaying of two second climbers.
This type of rope is used in multi-pitch climbing, but also in mountaineering and ice climbing.
Previously, there were climbing ropes known as twin ropes with the symbol 
which require belaying with both strands without separation and must always be clipped together. They can still be used today for glacier belaying or handrails in hiking.
which require belaying with both strands without separation and must always be clipped together. They can still be used today for glacier belaying or handrails in hiking.Multi-norm ropes: Three in one!
This rope combines the three certifications: single, double, and twin! It can therefore be used for sport climbing or rappelling, with the goal of having a thin and lightweight rope to absorb a fall in double rope mode but also robust for single use. However, this type of rope should be handled by experienced users, as belaying on a single strand is more difficult to control than on a single rope. It will also be more fragile and less resistant than a single rope. However, it remains effective for ridge climbs and snow couloirs, paired with a rappel cord to descend.
Semi-static and static ropes:
Note that this type of rope is not usable for climbing. As its name indicates, it has no elasticity, to avoid any hip fractures, no ascent with semi-static or static ropes! Certain disciplines such as caving, canyoning, or working at height on rope require rigidity to avoid the yo-yo effect (during descent or ascents on rope). Recognizable by its white color, its elasticity is between 2 and 5% (in comparison, a dynamic rope is usually around 28-35%) |  |
Technical data on climbing ropes
Fall factor
The fall factor corresponds to the length of the fall relative to the length of rope available. In climbing, the severity of a fall does not depend on height, as the longer the rope, the greater its absorption capacity.
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In both cases, the height of the fall is the same, but depending on the length of rope available, it will be more severe in case 2 because the rope's absorption capacity is lower than in case 1.
However, this fall factor remains theoretical and does not take into account the drag of the rope related to quickdraws, rock, belay systems, preventing the rope from absorbing the entirety of the fall. We then speak of the real fall factor. When climbing, limit drag as much as possible. In multi-pitch climbing, it is advisable to place a redirect at the belay.
You risk much less taking a 20m fall than zippering on the second. Also, remember to cut the ends of your rope once damaged, as these areas are the most stressed during falls.
On each rope, you will see indicated the maximum number of falls a rope can withstand, which corresponds to falls with a factor close to 2
Shock force
When the climber falls, they accumulate kinetic energy, and the rope absorbs most of the energy thanks to its elasticity. This portion of energy absorbed by the rope is called the shock force. This force is also absorbed by the belay system, the quickdraw, and the climber themselves, which means that the less the climber has to absorb the force, the less violent the impact of the fall will be.
The elements taken into account to calculate the shock force are:
- m is the mass of the climber in kg,
- G is the acceleration of gravity = 9.81m/s,
- h is the height of the fall in meters,
- v is the speed in m/s.
This gives us the following formula: Shock force = Mg (1+√(1+2Ks/Mg fc))
Unbelievable, isn't it? Especially since this formula does not take into account several variables, namely:
- The climber's body which also absorbs energy
- The harness
- The belay knot
- The belay points
- The friction of the rope
- The real fall factor…
The shock force of a rope is noted on its label, and it should be as low as possible to limit the stress on the belay points as well as for the comfort of the climber during the impact. Moreover, the fall factor is just one component of the shock force but has the same repercussions for it. Therefore, it is important to be vigilant and limit drag as much as possible.
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Norm 892
All ropes are tested in the lab against a given shock force (generally 12kN), this is the EN 892 standard. This means that your rope can withstand a force equal to the weight of an object of 1.2 tons. It should be noted that for double ropes, the shock force must be less than or equal to 8kN.
Note that depending on the activity practiced, the type of rope is not the same and the maximum shock force allowed by the standard is different.
Each climbing rope can absorb a maximum number of falls, and you will find these values indicated on the rope. Therefore, it is important to have your rope checked when this number is reached. However, this value corresponds to lab conditions (repeated falls without allowing the rope to fully retract).
According to the EN 892 standard, here is the number of falls that each type of rope must withstand for a fall factor of 1.77 and a mass of 80 kg (55kg for double ropes on a single strand) with an elongation at the first fall of less than 40%:
- Single ropes: 5 falls,
- Double ropes: 5 falls,
- Twin ropes: 12 falls.
Specific treatments for ropes
In addition to its mechanical characteristics, a climbing rope can have a chemical treatment of the sheath or core to enhance its performance. We talk about water-repellent treatment, anti-abrasion, marking, or even the welded sheath and core…
It should be noted that an untreated rope can absorb up to 50% of water. It then becomes heavier, and its capacity to withstand a fall decreases by about 10%. If in addition to the water you add cold, the rope can freeze and become much less resistant and difficult to handle.
Treatment of the sheath fiber before manufacturing |
| Increases the resistance to friction and dust of the rope. The rope absorbs less than 15% moisture |
Chemical hydrophobic treatment of the core and sheath fiber before manufacturing |
| Waterproofs the core fibers through polymerization and the sheath, making the rope more durable against water and dirt. It does not freeze and absorbs less than 3% moisture. Meets the UIAA WATER REPELLENT standard |
Some ropes have a process of bonding between the core and the sheath, thus preventing the movement of the core within the sheath (also called the "sock effect"), this finish also allows for greater durability of the rope (less swelling, reduces the risk of splitting at the end of the rope).
- Petzl : UltraSonic Finish: the core and sheath are bonded at their ends, thanks to an ultrasonic finish called UltraSonic Finish.
- Tendon : The patented TeFIX® technology permanently binds the sheath to the core.
- Beal: Unicore Technology
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Which rope for which practice?
Indoor climbing |
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CORDE TENDON MASTER 9.7 STANDARD MAMMUT 9.8 CRAG CLASSIC ROPE |
Sport climbing on cliffs |
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EDELRID PARROT 9,8MM PETZL CONTACT 9.8 MM TENDO MASTER PRO 9.7 |
Multi-pitch and mixed mountaineering |
| TENDON AMBITION 7.9 ALPINE PETZL RUMBA 8MM |
Ice climbing |
| PETZL PASO GUIDE 7.7 MM EDELRID SWIFT 48 PRO DRY 8,9MM |
Hiking, via ferrata, glacier roping |
| MAMMUT 9.5 CRAG DRY ROPE EDELRID SWIFT 48 PRO DRY 8,9MM |
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How to maintain your rope?
To increase the lifespan of your rope, it is imperative to take care of it to avoid deterioration due to time and elements.
Check your rope:
Before each use, remember to check your rope by sliding it through your hands along its entire length to detect any cuts, nicks, or irregularities. If the core is visible in certain places, or the rope is deformed or has taken too many falls, it is better to retire it. At the slightest doubt, consider having your rope checked by a specialist or directly by the manufacturer.
Rope maintenance:
If you take your rope to a dusty and dirty place, remember to clean it once back home with lukewarm water and mild soap (Marseille soap). For drying, leave your rope loose in the shade and in a cool, dry place. Be careful not to leave it in the sun, and do not wring it out!
Storage:
Once clean, store it in a rope bag in a dark place (UV rays degrade nylon fibers) and away from any moisture!
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A climbing rope has a variable lifespan depending on the manufacturer, averaging around 10 years. Of course, this should be taken with a grain of salt as nothing beats a visual inspection of the rope. Furthermore, this value decreases with the number of falls the rope has taken during its use.
There are recycling solutions for ropes that are too old and worn out, so contact specialized stores or brands like Edelrid or Mammut to learn more!
Another essential element for ensuring a good climbing session? Climbing shoes! If you don't know which one to choose, we guide you: How to choose my future climbing shoes well?
