Liquid Magnesium VS Powdered Magnesium which one is right for you!

Magnesium is THE essential companion for climbers for better grip on the wall and climbing holds indoors. This climbing equipment is available in 2 formats: powder and liquid.

Every climber has asked themselves this question: liquid magnesium or powder? More and more gyms are banning powdered magnesium in favor of liquid magnesium. And what about the effectiveness of each?

Alpinstore will try to answer all your questions!

What is magnesium?

Magnesium is used in the sports world to absorb sweat from the hands and dry them to prevent slipping.

But also in industry and some pharmaceutical products.

Its chemical definition (MgO) means it is magnesium oxide.

Magnesium comes in the form of a white powder obtained by calcining magnesium.

The origin of the name magnesium (discovered in 1808 by H.Davy) comes from the name Magnesia, Magnesia being a region of ancient Greece.

It can come in 2 forms: powdered magnesium or liquid magnesium.

Powdered Magnesium

What we call magnesium is actually magnesium carbonate. It is found in solid form in nature. It is its powdered form that we all know and use during our sessions.

Transportable in a magnesium bag, it's super practical. Block, route, indoors or outdoors, our chalk bag follows us everywhere. Around the waist or in hand, we slide our hands in and, in no time, we are ready to climb.

The advantage of powdered magnesium is that you can easily re-chalk during a climb. As soon as you manage to rest with one hand on a hold, the other hand is free and you can access the chalk bag.

Regarding the effectiveness of the product, powdered magnesium does its job. Sweat is absorbed, and you slip less on holds. Of course, external factors like your level of sweating, temperature, and ambient humidity can greatly influence performance.

We are increasingly warned about the effects of powdered magnesium on our health. Indeed, powdered magnesium is very volatile. When you put it on your hands, the surroundings benefit as well. When climbing outdoors, it spreads quickly, but indoors, it's a whole different story… we all suspect that the air in our gyms is not the purest.

Another problem with some powdered magnesium is that they are not composed solely of magnesium carbonate. Manufacturers add other components, such as silica. Even in small doses, repeated exposure to this element is toxic and can lead to illnesses.

In light of these concerns, some climbers are abandoning powdered magnesium in favor of liquid magnesium. But some climbers prefer powdered magnesium out of habit.

Find a wide selection of powdered magnesium at Alpinstore in balls or packets and even in block form.

Discover the gold range from Black Diamond! Black Gold contains 10% Upsalite: an anhydrous form of magnesium carbonate with a moisture absorption rate 30% higher than other compounds.

Liquid Magnesium

The liquid magnesium is actually powdered magnesium to which alcohol and sometimes thickener or resin have been added.

How can liquid magnesium dry our hands so well?!

When in contact with air and our skin, the alcohol in the magnesium evaporates. The product dries and our hands are full of powder. As if we took them out of the chalk bag! Overall, liquid magnesium holds better than powdered magnesium.

Liquid magnesium or powdered, the result is the same. But the main advantage of liquid magnesium is that it is much less volatile. It is the evaporation effect of the alcohol that dries our hands, so we have not (or little) diffused magnesium into the air.

This is why more and more gyms are banning powdered magnesium in favor of liquid magnesium.

The health stakes are significant, but using liquid magnesium has its drawbacks. Indeed, you need to have both hands free to apply liquid magnesium. In bouldering, this is not a problem because the routes are short. For longer routes, it is very complicated (if not impossible) to reapply during the ascent. And it dries the hands.

Moreover, the resin contained in some products tends to dirty the holds much faster despite more intensive brushing. More frequent cleaning of the holds is necessary!

Usage: Apply a small amount to the tips of your fingers. Rub a bit to distribute well. It is not necessary to do the palm of the hand. We climb with our fingers, not with the palm. You can speed up drying by shaking your arms. Wait until it is dry before climbing.

To keep it simple

Some tips for using your magnesium

Whether you are a fan of liquid magnesium or powdered, you need to make choices between the positives and negatives of each. However, there are some simple solutions to minimize the drawbacks of each type of magnesium.

• Ventilation

Improve the ventilation of the gyms. By better evacuating the suspended magnesium in the air, the air quality improves. A simple solution is to open the gym door. This also helps to evacuate sweat odors…

• Be reasonable

No, just because your hands are a pristine white does not mean you will climb better! Think of those around you, don’t put on tons.

• Clean the holds after your passage

Whether using liquid or powdered magnesium, give a little brush to the dirtiest holds when you finish your route. Don’t let the magnesium settle into the hold! The next climbers will thank you. If you use liquid magnesium, please do not leave your waste behind.

To find your magnesium, it is important to test several to make your choice. Indeed, depending on the manufacturers, they will not have exactly the same composition and therefore effectiveness.

And if the best of the best would be to have a base of liquid magnesium and then apply powdered magnesium...? Alpinstore recommends it!

If you are looking for more general advice or want to equip yourself for other needs, also discover our selection of climbing gear suitable for all levels.